SOPHIA SHREE B. K. SOMANI MEMORIAL POLYTECHNIC

&

SOPHIA SMT. MANORAMA DEVI SOMANI COLLEGE

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Sustainable fashion and textiles :

by Fletcher, Kate,
Published by : Earthscan, (London ; | Sterling, VA :) Physical details: xiv, 239 p. : col. ill. ; 25 cm. ISBN:9781844074631 (hardback); 1844074633 (hardback); 9781844074815 (pbk.); 1844074811 (pbk.). Year: 2008
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Accessories 214
Accountability 54
Accreditation 27
Acrylic 15, 18, 20–1, 63
Adidas 60
Advertising 73, 82
Aerial Spraying 14
Aesthetics 150–4, 167, 196–7, 229
Affection 145–6, 148–9
Affluence 143
Africa 32, 78, 117, 119
Ageing Process 194
Agriculture 8–9, 13, 25, 27, 29–30, 32, 34
Agrochemicals 15–16, 20, 32
Aid to Artisans 78–9
AIDS 78
Akin Tekstil 63
Alabama Chanin 169, 226
Algae 13
Alginate Fibres 101
Alternative Fibres 26–43
American Apparel 80, 82, 156
Apparel – American 80,82, 156
American Fiber Manufacturers Association (AFMA) 24, 94
AFMA - American Fiber Manufacturers Association 24, 94
Anderson, R. 84
Animal Husbandry 14
Animal-Based Fibres 12, 14–16, 132,142
Antimicrobial Coatings 101–2
Antimony 124, 133
Appropriateness 194–6, 201–3, 222
Aprons 156
Aral Sea 13
Ardalanish 176
Aristotle 149, 164, 230
Armenia 79
Artefacts 147
Asia 69
Asia Floor Wage (AFW) 69
AFW - Asia Floor Wage 69
Attachment 198–9
Auditors 70
Australia 108
Authenticity 174
AvestaPolarit 130
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) 29–30
Bacteria 67
Bags 178
Bamboo 18–19, 41
Bangladesh 68–9, 80
Barbour 196
Bast Fibres 16, 34–5
Bathrobes 133
Batterbee, K. 197
Beech 18
Benyus, J. 165–6, 205
Berger, J. 150
Bespoke Production 118
Best Available Techniques (Bats) 55
Best Clothes 128
Best Practice 16, 52, 56–8, 61, 65–8
Betabrand 230
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) 30
BCI - Better Cotton Initiative 30
Biocides 56, 67, 102
Biodegradability 9, 11–12, 40–1, 44, 56;
Biodegradability Ethics 58–9, 65;
Biodegradability Local/Light Design 180;
Biodegradability Reuse 114, 132–3;
Biodegradability Speed Issues 203, 208, 210;
Biodegradability Use Phase 98
Biodiversity 13, 24
Bioengineering 41
Biological Agricultural Systems in Cotton (BASIC) Programme 29
BASIC - Biological Agricultural Systems in Cotton Programme 29
Biological Cycles 132–3, 165
Biomass 38
Biomimicry 165–6
Biopolymers 36–8
Bioregional 176
Biotech Industry 30, 41
Blankets 114
Bleaching 19, 38, 40–1, 57–9, 61, 82
Blended Fibres 67, 102, 118, 124, 133
Blogs 113, 181, 226
Blouses 92, 94–5, 133, 201–2
Bluesign 56
Body Scanners 172
Bodymetrics 172
Bono 78
Borrowing Garments 181–3, 185
Brand, S. 191–2, 205
Braungart, M. 132, 168
BRIC Countries 167
Brick Lane Project 178
Bring Systems 116
British Bangladeshi Community 178
Brown, T. 228
Business Models 140, 143, 154, 159, 168;
Business Models Local/Light Design 172, 181, 185;
Business Models Participatory Design 223–7; Role 240, 243;
Business Models Speed Issues 190, 203
Buttons 156
C
Calendering 67
California 29
Cambia T-Shirts 180
Cambridge University 25, 184–5
Canada 16, 114, 178
Capitalism 142
Carbon Trust 202
Carbon-Neutral Fibres 11, 18
Carcinogens 17, 37, 55, 59–60, 67, 124
Cardigans 183
Carding Machines 122
Caress Dress 149
Carpets 133, 184
Cascades 114
Case Studies 3, 71, 201–2
Cashmere 40–1
Catwalks 150
Celebration 193
Cellulosic Fibres 10–12, 18–20, 38, 63, 67,210
Central Asia 13
Chain Stores 222
Chalayan, H. 198
Chanin, N. 169, 172
Chapman, J. 196, 199
Charity Shops 116, 120, 172, 212
Checklists 166
Chemicals 52, 55–6, 58–63, 65–7, 73;
Chemicals Ethics 75, 79, 82;
Chemicals Fashion/Needs 141–2, 146;
Chemicals Local/Light Design 176,185;
Chemicals Reuse 114, 132–3;
Chemicals Role 242;
Chemicals Speed Issues 212;
Chemicals Use Phase 98, 101
Child Labour 70
Childrenswear 128
China 34, 40, 44, 60, 119, 167
Chlorine 19, 61
Chouinard, Y. 84
Chronos 191
Circles of Trust 183
Clean Clothes 102–3, 107–8
Clean Clothes Campaign 70
Clean Production Techniques 57
Climate Control 15
Climatex Lifecycle 132–3
Clone Products 192
Closed-Loop Systems 132, 184, 223
Clothes Miles 174
Co-Design 222, 229
Coatings 26, 58, 67, 101–3
Coats 206, 214, 228
Cochineal 65, 82
Codes of Conduct 54–5, 69, 71, 75
Cold-Water Washing Machines 97–8
Collaboration 71, 127, 132, 181–3, 226, 229, 233, 235
Collars 100, 120, 223
Collection Costs 128–9
Collective Bargaining 70
Comme Des Garçons 156
Commercial Laundries 99
Commodity Markets 73
Common Threads Garment Recycling Programme 114, 128–9
Community 154, 164–5, 168–9, 173, 176, 178
Community Laundries 92, 99
Companies Act 56
Complex Systems See Systems-Level Improvements
Composting 37, 114, 130, 132–3, 150, 208, 210
Computer-Aided Design (CAD) 172
Connectedness 172–3, 193, 222, 243, 245
Constraints 72
Consumer-Care Phase 24
Consumption 3, 8–9, 11, 13, 16–17;
Consumption Ethics 55–6, 66, 72, 76, 82, 84, 88;
Consumption Fashion/Needs 139–62;
Consumption Laundering 100;
Consumption Local/ Light Design 165, 174, 181, 183–5;
Consumption Material Types 20, 23–6, 40–1, 43–4;
Consumption Participatory Design 224, 226–7, 233, 235;
Consumption Reuse 116, 119, 125–7, 134;
Consumption Role 155–9, 240–3;
Consumption Speed Issues 189, 191,193–4, 196, 198, 201–6, 210, 212;
Consumption Use Phase 92, 95, 97
Contracts 70, 76, 184, 198
Cooper, T. 193, 198
Cooperatives 71, 80
Corn-Starch Fibres 9, 12, 36–8, 133
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) 52, 54, 56, 73, 79
CSR - Corporate Social Responsibility 52, 54, 56, 73, 79
Corporations 56, 70, 79, 181
Cotton 8–15, 17, 20–1, 125, 205;
Cotton Alternatives 26–32;
Cotton Ethics 58–9,63, 67, 73, 80;
Cotton Fashion/Needs 156;
Cotton Laundering 99, 102;
Cotton Local/Light Design 167, 176, 183;
Cotton Material Types 23–6, 34–6, 41, 44;
Cotton Reuse 122, 133;
Cotton Speed Issues 190, 212;
Cotton Use Phase 93, 95–6
Cotton Incorporated 25
Cotton Made In Africa (CmiA) 30
CmiA - Cotton Made In Africa 30
Couture 169
Cradle To Cradle 130–3
Craft Skills 118, 120, 147, 155, 169;
Craft Skills Role 245;
Craft Skills Speed Issues 194, 204, and 206;
Craft Skills User Makers 224, 226–8, 231, 233, 235
Craft of Use 108–9, 144, 243
CRAiLAR Process 16, 35, 176
Crease Resistance 60, 67
Critical Consumerism 156
Crop Rotation 26–7
Crowdsourcing 230
Cuffs 120
Cultivated Silk 36
Cultivation/Extraction Phase 20–1
Cultural Capital 226, 243
Cultural Rhythm 191–3
Cushions 114
Custom Services 173
Customisation 172, 197, 212, 231
Cut-Loss 59
Cut-Make-Trim (CMT) 68–9
CMT - Cut-Make-Trim 68-9
Cutch 65
Cypermethrim 14
D
Danger-Cycling 124
Danyelle, J. 113
Darning 120
Deadlines 76
Defoliants 14, 26
Dematerialisation 179
Demos 224, 226
Denim 108, 212
Department of the Environment 21
Design 1–2, 173;
Design Activism 221–2;
Designer Makers 71, 228–31, 245;
Design Open-Source 226–8;
Design Participatory 228–31; S
Design speed issue 196-201
Design Issues 196–201;
Design Thinking 245;
Design Types164–88
Design For Disassembly (DFD) 124–5
DFD - Design For Disassembly 124–5
Design For Recycling (DFR) 124–5
DFR - Design For Recycling 124-5
Design-For-Sustainability Studies 54
Designtex 132
Desizing 57–9, 61
Detachable Collars 100
Detergents 15, 36, 92, 96–8, 210
Detox 60, 75, 242
Devenney, L. M. 103
Dew Retting 16, 35
Digital Printing 66–7, 172, 181
Digitization 172
Dimethyl Terephthalate 17
Diminishing Returns 143
Dioxins 60
Directive On Waste From Electrical And Electronic Products (WEEE) 134
WEEE - Waste From Electrical And Electronic Products 134
Display 156
Disposable Garments 107, 202–3, 210
Distinctiveness 173–4
Diversity 7–50
DIY Fashion 231
Do Shirt Project 233
Dosa 82
Dosurf 233
Dow Jones Sustainability Index 56
Downcycling 42, 114, 118, 128
Downshifting 120
Dress Codes 155
Dresses 103, 149, 185, 190, 208
Drip Irrigation 14, 32
Droog Design 233
Drug Resistance 67
Drury, K. 23
Dry Cleaning 98, 101, 185, 214
DuPont 20, 38
Durability 9, 193–4, 196–201, 206
Dyehouses 169
Dyes/Dyeing 27, 38, 40–2, 55, 57–8
Dyes/Dyeing; Ethics
60–6, 72–3, 82;
Dyes/Dyeing Fashion/Needs 141;
L Dyes/Dyeing ocal/Light Design 166, 176;
Dyes/Dyeing Reuse 114, 125, 132–3
Eastern Europe 117
Easy-Care Fabrics 95, 100
Ebay 119
Eclecticism 155
Eco Chic 141–2
Eco Intelligent Polyester (EIP) 133
EIP - Eco Intelligent Polyester 133
Eco-Efficiency 126, 227
Ecocircle 114, 124
Ecolog System 125
EcoModo 183
Economic Development 69
The Economics of Ecosystems and Biodiversity (TEEB) 24
TEEB - The Economics of Ecosystems and Biodiversity 24
Economies of Scale 168, 190
Education 184–5
EDUN 78
Edwardians 100
Efficiency 3, 9, 20, 52, 72;
Efficiency Laundering 102, 107;
Efficiency Local/Light Design 164, 167, 173, 179–81, 183;
Efficiency Participatory Design 227;
Efficiency Reuse 117–18, 126, 130, 133;
Efficiency Use Phase 92, 95–9
Effluents 15–16, 19, 58–60, 62–3, 66, 127, 130, 214;
Effluents Ethics 73
Ehrenfeld, J. 3, 147, 227
El Salvador 68
Elastane 38, 133
Electrochemical Dyeing 63
Embroidery 80, 128, 169
Emissions 11–12, 17–19, 21–2, 24, 37;
Emissions Ethics 58–9, 68;
Emissions Local/Light Design 174;
Emissions Material Types 40, 44;
Emissions Reuse 114, 117, 133;
Emissions Speed Issues 193, 208, 210, and 212;
Emissions Use Phase 97
Emotional Needs 144–9, 183, 196–201
Empathy 93, 151, 154, 159
End-Of-Life Phase 3, 21, 75, 116, 129, 134, 184
End-Of-Pipe Processes 126
Energy 8, 52, 56, 58–61, 63;
Energy Ethics 68;
Energy Fashion/Needs 156;
Energy Laundering 100;
Energy Local/Light Design 166, 173, 179, 183, 185;
Energy Recycling 122;
Energy Reuse 114, 117, 119, 124, 126–8, 130;
Energy Speed Issues 201–2, 208, 210;
Energy Use Phase 91–3, 95, 97, 102
England 176, 196
Entrepreneurs 78–9, 174
Environment Agency 51, 99
Environmental Impacts 10, 12–14, 16, 18–21, 24;
Environmental Impacts Ethics 52, 56, 58–60, 76;
Environmental Impacts Fashion/Needs 140, 142, 145–7,151;
Environmental Impacts Laundering 99, 107;
Environmental Impacts Local/Light Design 167, 183, 185;
Environmental Impacts Material Types 26, 37, 41, 43;
Environmental Impacts Participatory Design 224;
Environmental Impacts Recycling 125;
Environmental Impacts Reuse 117;
Environmental Impacts Speed Issues 208, 210, 212, 214;
Environmental Impacts Use Phase 91–5, 98–9, 109
Environmental Profit And Loss Account 24
Enzyme Retting 16, 35
Enzymes 132, 176
Escalators of Consumption 155–9
Eternally Yours Project 197
Ethical Trading Initiative 70
Ethics 11, 27, 43, 51–89, 120;
Ethics Fashion/Needs 149–50, 154, 156;
Ethics Participatory Design 227
Ethylene Glycol 17
Eudaimonia 149, 164, 230, 243
Europe 11, 43–4, 55, 61, 67;
Europe Ethics 75;
Europe Local/Light Design 169, 184;
Europe Reuse 117, 119, 122
European Commission (EC) 11, 55–6, 79
EC - European Commission 11, 55–6, 79
European Union (EU) 21, 44, 59, 97, 133–4
EU - European Union 21, 44, 59, 97, 133–4
Eutrophication 37
Evans, S. 198
Evening Dresses 185
Evergreen Lease 184–5
Everyday Clothes 128
Exchange 127, 133
Experiential Knowledge 151
F
Fabric Processing 56–8, 60
Fair Trade 7, 9, 27, 32, 73, 80, 147
Fashion 139–62, 173, 185, 189–90, 206,222–6
Fashion Victims 68
Fashioning an Ethical Industry 68
Fast Fashion 189–90, 204
Fast Species 206
Fastskin FSII 165
Feedback 72, 75–9, 127
Femininity 142
Fertilisers 13, 15–16, 26, 30, 41, 133
Fire Review 3, 12–13, 19–26, 56–8
Fibre-To-Fibre Recycling System 114
Fibrillation 40
FiftyRX3 Project 113
Finesse 194, 196
Finishes 67–8, 132, 183
Fixing Agents 65
Flax 9, 14, 16, 34–5
Fleeces 114
Flexibilisation 68
Flourishing 3, 149–50, 159, 164, 245
Football 69
Fordism 149
Formal Dress 156, 185
Fossil Fuels 36, 174
Franklin Associates 24, 94, 201
Freedom of Association 58, 70
Freshening Up 107, 210, 212
FTSE4Good 56
Fuad-Luke, A. 197
Fungicides 13, 29
Furnishings 9, 114, 184, 197–8, 201
Fustic 82
Future Generations 207, 224
Gablik, S. 154, 229
Gala Events 185
Gap 55
Garment Hire 185
Gender Bias 142
Genetic Modification (GM) 29–30, 41
Genuine Progress Indicator 179
Germany 116, 125, 133
Global Compact Principles 32
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) 27, 60
GOTS - Global Organic Textile Standard 27, 60
Global Recycle Standard 122
Globalisation 167–9, 174, 240
Goals 72, 75, 84, 109, 126–7;
Fashion/Needs 139, 141, 147, 154;
Local/LightDesign 184;
Participatory Design 227, 230;
Reuse 133;
Role 241
Gowns 208
Greeks 191
Green Chemistry 60
Green Design 151
Green Earth Cleaning 98
Green Goods 156
Green Jazz 228
Green Manufacturing 25
Greenhouse Gases 17, 22, 24, 37, 133
Greenpeace 60, 75, 242
Gronow, J. 143
Gross Domestic Product (GDP) 179
GDP - Gross Domestic Product 179
Groundwater 13, 117
Growth Regulators 26
Guidelines 57
Gupta, A. 173
H&M 60, 75, 134, 212
Hamdi, N. 159
Hand-Picked Cotton 14, 32
Health 14, 21, 32, 41, 56;
Ethics 63, 67;
Fashion/Needs 146;
Laundering 108;
Participatory Design 230;
Speed Issues 214;
Use Phase 98, 101–3
Heavy Metals 16–17, 60, 63, 65, 208
Heavyweight Fabrics 176
Hebrides 176
Hegemony 222, 242
Hemp 9, 14, 16, 23, 27;
Ethics 61;
Local/ Light Design 176;
Role 34–5, 44
Henry VIII 176
Herbicides 13, 16, 29–30, 41
Hewson, A. 78
Hexagonal Assemblies 180
Hieatt, C. 154
Hieatt, D. 154
Higg Index 54
Hire Goods 156, 185
Holroyd, A.T. 183
Home Clothes 128
Honey Bee Network 173
Honeycomb Assemblies 180
Honoré, C. 196
Hormone Disruption 60
Household Textiles 11
Howies 154
Human Rights 32, 56, 69
Humidity 133
Hydrocarbons 18
Hygiene 99, 103, 108
Ideational Forces 242
Identity 140–1, 143, 145–6, 155–6, 174, 178, 245
Ideology 193, 196, 221, 224
Illich, I. 224
Illuminati II 32
Immune System 61
Impacts 2–3
Incentives 72
India 29–30, 36, 80, 82, 173
Indian Institute of Management 173
Indigo 65, 82
Industrial Cycles 132
Industrial Ecology 127–30
Industrial Revolution 53, 168
Information Flows’ 72, 79
Infrastructure 13–14, 17, 30, 174
Inkjet Printing 66–7
Innovation 53–6, 59, 73;
Fashion/Needs 93, 95–7, 155;
Laundering 103;
Local/ Light Design 165–6, 173–4, 180;
Participatory Design 226–7;
Recycling 122;
Reuse 114, 120, 124, 130, 133;
Role 242;
Speed Issues 191, 203;
Use Phase 109
Insecticides 13–15, 29
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) 29
Integrated Pollution Prevention And Control (IPPC) 55–6
Interconnected Material Cycles 127–8
Interdisciplinarity 245
Interface 84, 184
Intergenerationality 3
Interventions 71–2
IPPC 75, 79
Ironing 93, 97
Irrigation 13–14, 16, 30, 32
Islands of Slowness 203
Isle of Mull 34, 176
Isle of Mull Weavers 34
Italy 203
J
Jack, T. 108
Jackets 114, 120, 196
Japan 80, 114, 165
Jeans 91, 103, 108, 172, 190, 212
Jégou, F. 172, 203
Job Security 51
Jumble Sales 212
Jumpers 103
Junky Styling 120
Just-In-Time Manufacturing 185, 189
Jute 16, 35
K
Kairos 191
Kawakubo, R. 156
Keep and Share 183, 196
Kenaf 16, 35
Khadi Fabrics 82
Kim, C. 82
Knit Fibres 128, 150
Knits 100, 120, 180, 183, 196
Knitting 58–9, 169
Knowledge Types 151, 173
Labelling 97, 122, 133, 156, 198, 212, 214
Labour Abuses 51, 55, 68–9
Labour Behind the Label 68–9, 75
Labour Costs 59, 68
Labour Standards 52, 56, 58, 68–70, 76, 82
Lands’ End 172
Lanolin 15
Lateral Thinking 180
Laundering 9, 24–5, 40, 63, 91–3;
Laundering Fashion/ Needs 141;
Laundering Local/Light Design 179–80, 184–5;
Laundering Speed Issues 191, 201–2, 206, 210, 212;
Laundering Use Phase 95–9, 107–8
Le, J. 103
Lead Times 75–6, 169, 190, 204
Leadership 84
Leasing 185–6
Leather 24, 178
Legislation 53–6, 75
Lenzing 20, 40
Lesotho 68, 78
Levi Strauss 27, 56, 60, 91
Lifecycle Assessment (LCA) 20, 24–5, 43, 93–5, 99, 102, 201
LCA - Lifecycle Assessment , 24–5, 43, 93–5, 99, 102, 201
Lifetimes Project 206–7
Light Design Principles 164–88
Lightweight Fabrics 129, 176, 179–80
Limited Editions 168
Linen 16, 63, 73, 103
Linings 196, 223
Linux 172, 226, 230
Liquor Ratios 62, 65
Living Strategies 172
Load Sizes 101
Local Colours 65
Local Design Principles 164–88
Local Product Development 3
Local Wisdom Project 173, 178, 243
Localism 167–74
Logistics 167, 190
Logos 156
Look Behind the Label 73
Looolo Textiles 114
Loops 114
Low-Chemical Cotton 9, 14, 29–30, 32, 44
Low-Impact Fibres 73
Low-Liquor Dyeing 65
Low-Water-Use Cotton 30–2
Lubricants 58–9
Lyocell 9, 12, 19–20, 23, 38–41, 44
3M 67, 101
Mcdonald’s 203
Mcdonough, W. 132, 168
Mcquillan, H. 130
Madder 65
MADE-BY Initiative 22, 79, 156
Manufacturing Industry 2, 8, 12, 16–21;
Manufacturing Industry Ethics 51–4, 56, 68;
Manufacturing Industry Fashion/Needs 154;
Manufacturing Industry Local/Light Design 167–9, 172–3;
Manufacturing Industry Material Types 24–5, 34, 38;
Manufacturing Industry Participatory Design 222–3,226;
Manufacturing Industry Reuse 122, 124, 126–7, 133–4;
Manufacturing Industry Role 240, 242–3;
Manufacturing Industry Speed Issues 189;
Manufacturing Industry Systems-Level Improvements 71–85;
Manufacturing Industry Use Phase 94–5
Manzini, E. 172, 203
Marijuana 23
Market Forces 10–11, 14, 23, 27, 29–30;
Market Forces Ethics 54–5, 75;
Market Forces Fashion/Needs 143–4;
Market Forces Material Types 34, 40, 42, 44;
Market Forces Reuse 119;
Market Forces Role 243;
Market Forces User Makers 224
Marks And Spencer (M&S) 32, 34, 60, 63,73, 75, 100, 134
Masculinity 142
Material Stocks/Flows 72–5
Material Types 2, 7–50
Maternity Clothes 185
Mattelmäki, T. 197
Max-Neef, M. 143, 145–8
Meadows, D. 71–2, 85
Media 55
MEND*RS 120
Mending 120, 214
Menswear 128
Mental Illness 140
Merino Sheep 14
Mestral, G. De 165
Metadesign 222
Microban 67, 102
Microsoft 230
Mindfulness 172
Mindsets 72, 84–5
Minority Fibres 9
Miticides 29
Modes/Models of Production 71–85, 142, 226
Modular Design 100
Modularity 102, 156, 173, 214
Monitoring 69–70
Monocultures 8, 125, 169
Mordants 65
Morphotex 165–6
Moths 178, 214
Muji 122, 228
Mulberry Trees 15
Multi-Stakeholder Initiatives 70
Nanotechnology 102–3
Nappies 99
Narcotics 176
Natural Dyes 65
Natural Fibres 7, 11–17, 26, 34, 40;
Natural Fibres Ethics 61, 80;
Natural Fibres Fashion/Needs 141–2;
Natural Fibres Laundering 99;
Natural Fibres Material Types 42;
Natural Fibres Recycling 125
Natural Rhythm 191–3
Naturally Advanced Technologies 16
Naturally-Coloured Fibres 41
Naturtex Partners 41
Needs 3, 139–62, 167, 172, 183;
Participatory Design Needs 224;
Speed Issues Needs 196, 206
Needs-Based Models 149
Negademand 180–1
Negative Feedback Loops 72, 75–6
Netherlands 91
Networking 227
New Economics Foundation 174
NGOs 75
Nike 55, 60, 70
Nine Lives Project 128
No Logo 56
No Wash Tops 103, 107
Nobel Prize 4, 147
Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) 55–6, 69–70
NGOs - Non-Governmental Organizations 55–6, 69–70
Non-Woven Fabrics 100
Norms 108
Notkin, J. 176
Novelty 156–7
Numbers 72–3
Nylon 12, 15, 17–18, 20, 25;
Nylon Ethics 63, 67, 73;
Nylon Laundering 100, 102;
Nylon Local/Light Design 166;
Nylon Material Types 38, 43;
Nylon Recycling 124
Obsolescence 116, 140, 200
Offer, A. 143, 146, 205
Office Wear 185
Offside! 69
Oil 9, 12, 14, 17, 23, 43
On-Demand Production 59
One Campaign 78
Open-Source Design 2, 172, 226–8
Organic Fabrics/Fibres 7, 9, 60, 114, 147;
Organic Fabrics/Fibres Cotton 9, 14, 23–4, 26–9, 32, 41, 44, 73, 80, 156; Organic Fabrics/Fibres Fashion/Needs 155–6;
Organic Fabrics/Fibres Silk 16;
Organic Fabrics/Fibres Soybeans 41;
Organic Fabrics/Fibres Wool 15, 32–4, 82
Organochlorines 67, 102
Organophosphates 13–15, 32
Outcomes 92, 200, 228
Outdoor Garments 125
Outputs 75, 127
Overdosing 98
Overdyeing 128
Overprinting 120
Oxfam 69, 75
Oxidative Route 59
Packaging 72
Pad-Batch Dyeing 63
Pakistan 133
Paper Dolls Collection 156
Paradigms 72, 84–5
Páramo 180
Parasites 14
Part Loads 101
Participatory Design 2–3, 154, 222, 228–31
Partnership Model 229
Party Tops 206, 208
Passive Fashion 222–6
Patagonia 23, 84, 102, 114, 128–9
Patching 120, 212
Patents 165
Pathogens 108
Pattern Cutting 130, 180
Patterns of Use 201–3
Peace Silk 36
Peak Oil 23, 193
Pentachlorophenols (PCPs) 59
PCPs – Pentachlorophenols 59
People Tree 80
Pepper, D. 167
Perchloroethylene (Perc) 67, 98
Perc – Perchloroethylene 67, 68
Perfluorination 101
Perfluorocarbons 67
Permaculture 127, 150
Personalisation 197, 228
Peru 41
Pesticides 9, 11, 13–15, 133, 212;
Fashion/Needs 146;
Material Types 21, 24, 26, 30, 32, 42;
Speed Issues 214
PET 38
Petrochemicals 9, 16–17, 23, 37, 40, 98
Petroleum 133
Philippines 68
Physical Needs 145
Pilot Projects 63, 70
Plan A Initiative 32, 34, 73
Plant-Based Fibres 11–12, 18, 132, 142
PlantFiber 38
Plastics 43
Pluralism 82
Poisons See Toxins
Politics 150, 230–3
Pollution 8–9, 11, 13–17, 117, 130;
Pollution Ethics 51, 55, 58–63, 72;
Pollution Fashion/Needs 141;
Pollution Laundering 107;
Pollution Local/Light Design 167, 176, 179;
Pollution Material Types 19–20, 24, 27;
Pollution Participatory Design 224;
Pollution Speed Issues 214;
Pollution Use Phase 92, 98
Polyamide 17
Polyester 8–12, 15–17, 20–1, 23–4, 36;
Polyester Ethics 63, 66–7, 73;
Polyester Laundering 100, 102;
Polyester Local/Light Design 166, 179;
Polyester Material Types 38, 42–3, 63, 66–7;
Polyester Recycling 125;
Polyester Reuse 114, 122, 124, 128, 133;
Polyester Speed Issues 201, 208;
Polyester Use Phase 92, 94–6
Polylactic Acid (PLA) 12, 17, 23, 36–8, 44
PLA - Polylactic Acid 12, 17, 23, 36–8, 44
Polymers 12, 17–18, 118, 122
Polypropylene 20
Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA) 59
PVA - Polyvinyl Alcohol 59
Portugal 169
Positive Feedback Loops 72, 76–9
Poverty 51, 69, 78, 108, 119, 146–7, 190
Power Structures 143, 154, 167, 169, 204, 223, 231, 242–3
Practical Knowledge 151
Pre-Owned Clothing 116
Presentational Knowledge 151
Price Fluctuations 73
Printing 58, 60–2, 66–7, 80, 172, 181
Privatisation 30
Pro-Ams 224, 226
Process Focus 96–9
Product Focus 96, 99–102
Product Lifecycles 9, 11
Production Costs 172
Production Phase 3, 9, 21, 52–4, 56–9, 93
Production Systems 99–102
Profit 84, 126, 168, 181, 185, 190, 204, 243
Propositional Knowledge 151
Prosumers 224
Protocols 15–16, 19
Prudence 205–6
Psychology/Psychological Needs 140, 145–6, 155, 194
Public Relations (PR) 95
Public Sector 149
Puma 24, 60
Punishments 72
Purchase Rates 189
Pyrethoids 13–14, 32
Qualitative Studies 19–21
Quantitative Studies 19–20
Quilting 169
Quotas 78
Rag Collectors 116
Rain-Fed Cotton 14, 30, 32, 35
Raincoats 228
Ramie 133
Rapidly-Renewable Resources 7, 12
Re-Dyeing 42
REACH Programme 55, 75
Recessions 169
Reciprocity 150
Reconditioned Garments 116, 118, 120
Recycled Fibres 7, 9, 17, 23, 41–3, 72–3
Recycling 113–36, 166, 180, 184, 203, 208, 233
Recyclon 124
Red-Carpet Events 185
Reform Project 231–3
Regionalism 9, 30
Renewable Fibres 7, 9, 11, 23
Renewable Resources 12, 36–8, 40
Repairs 26, 118, 120, 140, 173–4, 181, 185, 196
Repolymerization 43
Reproductive System 61, 98
Research and Development (R&D) 73, 125
Resourcefulness 154, 159, 165, 193, 222, 243
Resources 3, 9, 20, 52, 56;
Resources Ethics 62, 66,72–3;
Resources Exchange 113–36;
Resources Fashion/ Needs 140, 145, 155–7;
Resources Laundering 99, 103;
Resources Local/Light Design 164, 166–8, 173, 179–80, 183–4;
Resources Participatory Design 224, 233;
Resources Profiles 93–5;
Resources Recycling 125;
Resources Reuse 118–20, 127, 129;
Resources Role 242–3;
Resources Speed Issues 192–4, 196, 201–4, 206;
Resources Use Phase 108
Respectability 108
Retting 16, 34–5, 176
Reuse 26, 59, 63, 65, 95;
Laundering Reuse 107;
Local/Light Design Reuse 169, 174, 180;
Reuse Role 98–9, 113–36;
Reuse Speed Issues 198
Reverse Consumerism 233
Reversible Fabrics 180
Rhythm 191–3, 201–3, 206
Rigby, E. 107
Risk Assessment 51
Rissanen, T. 130
Rohner Textil 132
Rolling Replacements 155
Royal Navy 176
3Rs 117
Rubber 24
Rules 72, 80–2
Ryan, C. 183
Safety 56, 75
Salvation Army 172
Scale 163–5, 167–9, 173, 179, 190–1, 203, 242–3
Scandinavia 194
Scarcity of Materials 23
Scotchguard 67, 101
Scotland 176
Scouring 14–15, 56–9, 61, 176, 214
Scrap Fabrics 130
Screen Printing 66
Seamstresses 172
Seed Industries 30
Self-Organization 72, 82
Sen, A. 4, 147, 207
Sequestering Agents 61
Service Economy 156, 183–6
Sewing Guides 128
Sewing Thread 133, 172
Sexual Harassment 146
Sharan Craft Centre 79
Shared Use 165, 181–3, 243–5
Shareholders 56
Sheets 120
Sherburne, A. 42
Shetlands 176
Shirts 100, 133, 233, 245
Shodh Yatra 173
Shove, E. 155
Shrugs 183
Shwopping 75, 134
Side Effects 67
Silk 15–16, 36, 40, 44, 82, 101, 103
Silkworms 15, 36
Silver 101–2
Simon, H. 4
Single-Frame Approaches 9
Sizing Agents 58–9
Skepticism 185
Skirts 128
Slater, K. 23
Slow Culture 196, 203–4
Slow Design 3, 159, 201, 203–6, 214
Slow Food Movement 203–4
Slow Species 206
Smart Technologies 25
Smits, S. 197–8
Social Accountability International 70
Social Impacts 8, 10, 12, 17, 26;
Social Impacts Ethics 52,
56, 68, 76;
Social Impacts Fashion/Needs 142, 145–7,151;
Social Impacts Local/Light Design 183;
Social Impacts Material Types 43;
Social Impacts Use Phase 92
Social Media 149
Socks 133
Soil Erosion 24, 34
Soil Particulates 30
Soil Salinisation 16
Solvents 66, 98
Sorona 38
Sourcing Policies 73
Soybean Fi Bres 12, 23, 40–1, 44
Spain 169
Specialist Fabrics 67–8
Speed Issues 3, 189–220, 243
Speth, J.G. 227–8
Spinning 58–9, 169
Sportswear 114, 154, 180
Spot Cleaning 210
Sri Lanka 68
Stabilisers 58, 61
Stahel, W. 201
Stain Resistance 26, 67, 101
Stakeholders 70, 79, 174, 228–9
Standard Body Shapes 223
Standards 72–3
Staple Fibres 36, 125
Starches 59
Statistics 117, 122, 189, 199
Status 98, 108, 140, 223
Steam Explosions 35
Stenters 68
Stitching 156
Stockpiling 199
Storage 59, 199, 210, 214
String Vests 180
Sub-Saharan Africa 117
Substitute Fibres 12, 14, 16–19
Suits 101, 120, 185
Super Bugs 67, 102
Super Satisfiers 148
Supply Chains 9, 22, 24, 30, 54–6;
Supply Chains Ethics 60, 68–9, 71, 73, 79, 85;
Supply Chains Fashion/ Needs 140, 156;
Supply Chains Local/Light Design 166, 168;
Supply Chains Participatory Design 228;
Supply Chains Reuse 127;
Supply Chains Use Phase 102
Surfactants 98
Sustainability 5–6, 11–12, 137–8, 239–45;
Sustainability Ethics 51–90;
Sustainability Locality 163–88;
Sustainability Material Types 7–50;
Sustainability Needs 139–62;
Sustainability Reuse 113–36;
Sustainability Speed Issues 189–20;
Sustainability Use Phase 91–112;
Sustainability User Makers 221–38
Sustainable Apparel Coalition 54
Sustainable Cotton Project 29
Swimwear 165
Switzerland 132
Symbiosis 127
Symbols 144, 169, 186, 206
Synthetic Dyes 65
Synthetic Fibres 11–12, 15, 18, 20, 23;
Synthetic Fibres Ethics 66, 73;
Synthetic Fibres Laundering 99;
Synthetic Fibres Local/ Light Design 176, 179–80;
Synthetic Fibres Reuse 132;
Synthetic Fibres Role 36, 42;
Synthetic Fibres Use Phase 94
Systems Focus 3, 52–3, 71–85, 96, 102–3;
Systems Focus Fashion/Needs 147;
Systems Focus Improvements 163–5, 180–1;
Systems Focus Role 242;
Systems Focus Transformed 184;
Systems Focus Use Phase 92
T-Shirts 78, 80, 82, 93, 122;
T-Shirts Fashion/Needs 154; T-Shirts - Local/Light Design 166–7, 180;
T-Shirts Participatory Design 233; Reuse 133
Tailoring 169, 172, 214
Takahashi, J. 156
Take Back Legislation 133
Target Setting 72
Technology 53–4, 56, 59, 63, 65–6;
Technology Ethics 68, 79;
Technology Fashion/Needs 156;
Technology Laundering 107;
Technology Local/Light Design 169, 172–3, 176;
Technology Participatory Design 224;
Technology Recycling 122, 125;
Technology Reuse 114, 124, 129, 133;
Technology Role 242;
Technology Speed Issues 204–5;
Technology Use Phase 97
Teijin 38, 114, 124, 165
Tempo Giusto 196, 204
Terephthalic Acid (TA) 17
Terms of Engagement 56
Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) 34
Thackara, J. 168, 203, 230
Thermapresses 66
Thorpe, A. 103, 146, 194
Ties 101
Time Issues 191, 204, 206
Toffler, A. 224
Top Man 120
Top Shop 212
Tops 128, 190, 206, 208
Towels 133, 183
Toxins 13, 27, 52, 55, 58;
Toxins Ethics 60, 63;
Toxins Fashion/Needs 146; Toxins Reuse 114, 133;
Toxins Speed Issues 212
Traceability 122, 156
Tracking 79
Trade Associations 94, 98
Trade Unions 51, 68–70, 75
Tradition 169, 173, 178
TRAID Remade 117, 120
Trans-Disciplinarity 92
Transfer Printing 38, 66
Transition Strategies 126
Transparency 55, 71, 79, 168
Transport 21, 26, 59, 107, 167, 169, 174,179
Trends 228
Trichloroethylene 15
Triclosan 102
Trigema 133
Trousers 120, 206, 212
Tuberculosis 108
Tumble Drying 26, 95, 100
Tweed 176
Typhoid 108
U2 78
Ultraviolet (UV) Curing 66
Underarm Ventilation 103
Undercover Label 156
Underwear 91, 103, 107, 133, 206, 210,228
Uniqlo 60
Unisize Garments 183, 196, 228
United Kingdom (UK) 11, 14, 18, 21,25;
United Kingdom (UK) Ethics 51, 56, 67, 69, 73, 75–6;
United Kingdom (UK) Laundering 100–1
United Kingdom (UK); Local/Light Design 168, 176, 178;
United Kingdom (UK) Material Types 34;
United Kingdom (UK) Participatory Design 222, 224;
United Kingdom (UK) Reuse 119, 134;
United Kingdom (UK) Speed Issues 190, 199;
United Kingdom (UK) Use Phase 97, 99;
United Kingdom (UK) Waste 116–17
United Nations (UN) 32
United States (US) 25, 29, 40, 44, 59;
United States (US) Ethics 80, 82;
United States (US) Local/Light Design 167, 169, 172, 184;
United States (US) Participatory Design 230;
United States (US) Reuse 133;
United States (US) Waste 116
Unwashed Clothes 103
Upcycling 118
Updatable 233–5
Upholstery 132, 197
Use Phase 3, 20–1, 24, 63, 91–114;
Use Phase Local/Light Design 184;
Use Phase Shared 243–5;
Use Phase Speed Issues 196–203, 206, 212
User Makers 221–38
Usership 144, 201
Value-Free Fashion 141–2, 151
Value-Laden Fashion 142–4, 151
Variety 156
Vaude 125
Vegetable Cashmere 40
Vegetable Fibres 65
Vegetarian Silk 36
Velcro 156, 165
Verification 69–70
Vests 180
VF Corporation 154
Victor Innovatex 133
Victorians 100
Vintage Fabrics 172
Vintage Garments 119–20
Virgin Fibres 128
Viscose 18–21, 25, 63
Volatile Organic Compounds (Vocs) 58,66–7
Volume-Budget Model 190
Von Busch, O. 198, 229, 231–2
Waffle Assemblies 180
Waistbands 223
Wales 154
Walker, S. 151, 168, 230
War on War 68
Warde, A. 155
Wardrobe Inventories 206
Washing Balls 98
Washing Machines 92, 97, 99, 102, 108,156
Waste 15, 21, 24, 26, 38;
Waste Ethics 52, 56, 58–60, 72–3;
Waste Local/Light Design 165, 167, 169, 173, 179, 181;
Waste Management Strategies 117–26;
Waste Material Types 40–3;
Waste Reuse 114, 116–17, 122, 130, 133–4;
Waste Speed Issues 193;
Waste Use Phase 92
Water 9, 11–21, 24–6, 30–2, 34–5;
Water Ethics 51–2, 55, 58–63, 65–6, 72, 75;
Water Fashion/Needs 141;
Water Local/Light Design 167, 185;
Water Material Types 38, 40–2;
Water Repellency 60, 67;
Water Reuse 117, 133;
Water Role 242;
Water Speed Issues 190, 193, 208, 210, 212, 214;
Water Use Phase 97–8, 102
5 Ways Project 103, 128, 148, 178, 233
Wearable Electronics 156–7
Weaving 58–9, 169
Websites 79, 119
Wedding Dresses 185, 208
Weld 65
Well Dressed? 25
West 119, 144, 190, 221
West Africa 30
White Fibres 125
Whole Systems See Systems Focus
Whole-Garment Knits 59
Wikipedia 172, 226
Wild Silk 16, 36, 44, 82
Wipe-Clean Surfaces 103
Women 69, 128, 169, 185
Wong, M. 184
Wood 18–19, 34, 38, 40
Wool 9, 14–15, 18–22, 32–4, 41;
Wool Ethics 60, 67, 73, 82;
Wool Grease Sludge 15;
Wool Laundering 102–3;
Wool Local/Light Design 176;
Wool Material Types 44;
Wool Reuse 127–8, 130, 133;
Wool Speed Issues 214;
Wool Use Phase 95
Wooltech 15
Working Conditions 69–70, 75, 82, 191
World Cup 69
World Health Organization (WHO) 13
World Views 3
World War II 40
Woven Fabrics 100, 114, 176, 180
WRAP 193
Wraps 183
Yarns 59, 61–2, 117, 120, 122, 124, 128, 133
Youtube 226, 230
Zara 169
Zero-Waste Pattern-Cutting 130

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