SOPHIA SHREE B. K. SOMANI MEMORIAL POLYTECHNIC

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SOPHIA SMT. MANORAMA DEVI SOMANI COLLEGE

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Study and documentation of Paithani Sarees & Dress Materials

Published by : TEXTILES COMMITTEE - MINISTRY OF TEXTILES GOVT. OF INDIA (MUMBAI) Year: 2008
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CONTENTS

Chapter 1 Socio-Economic Profile of Maharashtra 1 1.1 History and Location 1 1.2 Gross State Domestic Product 2 1.3 State Income 3 Chapter 2 Handloom Industry in Maharashtra 6 2.1 Introduction 6 2.2 Post Independence Policy on Handlooms 7 2.3 Handlooms in Maharashtra 9 Chapter 3 The Historical Background of Paithan 14 Chapter 4 History of Textile at Paithan & Yeola 22 4.1 Introduction 22 4.2 Paithan 22 4.2.1 Textiles during the Satavahana Age 24 4.2.2 Post Satavahana Period 25 4.2.3 Maratha Period 30 4.3 Yeola 33 Chapter 5 Role of Community in Manufacturing Process of Paithani Sari 35 5.1 Background 35 5.2 Role of Community 38 5.2.1 Weavers 38 5.2.2 Momins 39 5.2.3 Rangaris 39 5.2.4 Koshtis 39 5.2.5 Patwegars or Patwekaris 40 5.3 Artisans Community on the basis of their activity 40 5.3.1 Traders/Manufa cturers 40 5.3.2 Dyers 41 5.3.3 Weavers 41 Chapter 6 Geographical Location of Paithan & Yeola 43 6.1 Paithan 43 6.2 Yeola 43 6.3 Geographical Coverage 44 Chapter 7 Production Process 46 7.1 Procurement of Raw Material 46 7.2 Technique of Paithani Weaving 46 7.3 Sorting, Reeling & Spinning 47 7.4 Bleaching & Dyeing 48 7.5 Sizing 49 7.5.1 Winding (yarn opening for weft) 49 7.5.2 Warping (yarn opening for warp) 51 7.6 Threading 51 7.7 Weaving 52 7.7.1 Loom 52 7.8 Gold and Silver Threading 53 7.9 Finishing 55 7.10 Designing of Embroidery 55
7.11 Production Process Flow Chart 56 Chapter 8 Product Diversification 57 8.1 Various Products during Maratha Period 57 8.2 List of the latest products 61 Chapter 9 Uniqueness 64 9.1 Introduction 64 9.2 Uniqueness 64 9.3 Motifs 65 9.4 Types of Paithani 68 Chapter 10 Statistical Overview 69 10.1 Weavers 69 10.2 Structure of the Enterprises in the Cluster Production 69 10.3 Number of Traders working in the area 69 10.4 Role of Master Artisans 69 10.5 Approximate Cost per Sari 70 10.6 Domestic & Export Market 70 Chapter 11 Key Actors of the Cluster 71 11.1 Development in the Handloom Sector 71 11.2 Coordination between various Government Departments 73 11.3 Government of India Schemes for Handloom Weavers 74 11.4 District Administration 74 References 75

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